An absolutely extraordinary Victorian lapis lazuli and pearl bangle with concealed clasp and safety chain in 9ct gold.
Hallmarked to the inside of the band 9ct. This bangle has at some point in its life been gilded on top of the 9ct gold to a much richer gold and in most places looks 20-22ct gold, however this has faded/been rubbed in places.
In incredible condition, with original safety chain still in tact and no major dinks to bangle or to lapis.
This is a really statement piece with a huge central lapis lazuli measuring 22m and the two flanking stones measuring 13.2mm – lapis displays gold flecks.
Size
6cm diameter
21.3g
Further information:
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An absolutely sensational vintage lapis lazuli and gold bead fringe necklace. Clasp is hallmarked 585 for 14ct gold and the spacer beads have been tested for 14ct gold.
This incredible piece would pep up any outfit and is definitely a conversation starter, I mean you’d practically BE Cleopatra in this!
Condition
In wonderful vintage condition, hangs really nicely on, lapis is studded with gold pyrite flecks and is well cut and polished.
Lapis measures 27.7mm (longest lapis) to 8.3mm (shortest), the beads are 7.9mm.
A–Z Guide to Gemstones: Origins, Properties & Birthstone Meanings
Explore this succinct guide to popular gemstones—each entry a blend of mineral beauty, cultural heritage, and astrological connection. Sourced from expert authorities including the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and The Geological Society of London, this guide highlights gemstone properties, birthstone meanings, and historic symbolism. We have linked our collection of jewellery from each gem in turn so it’s easy to discover your favourite gemstone.
Alexandrite (June) A chrysoberyl that changes color based on light source, alexandrite was first discovered in 1830s Russia. As per GIA, its rarity and optical properties make it one of the most sought-after modern June birthstones, associated with balance and transformation.
Amethyst (February) A variety of quartz (SiO₂) with a Mohs hardness of 7, amethyst owes its royal violet hue to trace iron and irradiation. Recognised by the GIA, it has long been associated with clarity and sobriety. The Greeks believed it warded off intoxication, and today it is the official birthstone for February, often linked to calm and protection. Our collection of amethyst jewellery can be found here:
Aquamarine (March) Aquamarine, a blue-to-green variety of beryl (Be₃Al₂Si₆O₁₈), gets its hue from iron content. With a hardness of 7.5–8, it’s a durable gemstone perfect for jewellery. According to the GIA, this modern March birthstone was considered a sailor’s talisman, offering courage and clarity at sea. Our collection of aquamarine jewellery can be found here:
Bloodstone (March) Bloodstone, or heliotrope, is a dark green chalcedony (cryptocrystalline quartz) flecked with red jasper inclusions. Traditionally March’s birthstone, it was believed in medieval Europe to have healing powers—especially to stop bleeding. The Geological Society identifies it as a key example of mineralogical inclusions impacting folklore and gemstone value. Our collection of bloodstone jewellery can be found here
Citrine (November) Citrine is a yellow-to-orange quartz formed naturally or through heat-treated amethyst. With a Mohs hardness of 7, it’s resilient and radiant. The GIA lists it as November’s modern birthstone, associated with prosperity and positive energy. Click here to see our collection of citrine jewellery:
Diamond (April) Composed entirely of carbon, diamond is the hardest known natural substance (Mohs 10). As the GIA notes, diamonds were first sourced from India and became symbolic of love and eternity in Renaissance Europe. It is the modern and traditional April birthstone, often used in engagement jewellery. Shop from our diamond collection here
Emerald (May) Emerald is a chromium- or vanadium-rich green beryl, noted for its inclusions or jardin, which are accepted as part of its charm. As detailed by the GIA, emeralds were revered by Cleopatra and the Inca for their vitality and spiritual power. This May birthstone symbolizes rebirth and growth. See our emerald collection here:
Garnet (January) Garnet refers to a diverse family of silicate minerals, most famously deep red almandine, but also found in striking green (tsavorite), orange (spessartine), and even rare color-changing varieties. With a Mohs hardness of 6.5–7.5, garnet is both resilient and versatile. According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), garnets have been used in jewellery dating back to ancient Egypt and Rome, often symbolizing protection and guidance during travel. As the traditional January birthstone, garnet is also linked to regeneration, grounding energy, and enduring love. For our garnet jewellery click here:
Lapis Lazuli (September/December) A deep blue rock composed mainly of lazurite, calcite, and pyrite, lapis was once ground into pigment for Renaissance paintings. The Geological Society discusses its role in early trade and art. Historically linked to both September and December, lapis is a stone of insight and communication. Too see some exceptional lapis lazuli pieces for sale follow this link:
Moonstone (June) Moonstone, part of the feldspar group, displays adularescence—a soft, glowing sheen. According to GIA, this June birthstone alternative is associated with feminine energy and intuition, used in ancient Roman jewellery and modern metaphysical practices. For our moonstone collection click here:
Opal (October) Opal is hydrated silica that exhibits play-of-color due to its microscopic silica spheres. As the GIA explains, each opal is unique, inspiring legends of magic and luck. This traditional October birthstone represents inspiration and spontaneity. For some lovely opal jewellery, take a look here:
Pearl (June) Formed organically inside mollusks, pearls are composed of nacre (aragonite + conchiolin). Their soft glow has captivated cultures for centuries. The Geological Society discusses their formation as biogenic minerals. Pearls are June’s traditional birthstone, symbolising wisdom and purity. For our pearl jewellery click here:
Peridot (August) A gem-quality olivine, peridot forms deep within Earth’s mantle and surfaces via volcanic activity. Its distinctive lime green color comes from iron, and the GIA notes it was prized by ancient Egyptians as the “gem of the sun.” This modern August birthstone evokes energy and warmth. For some vibrant peridot pieces, take a look here:
Ruby (July) Rubies are the red variety of corundum (Al₂O₃) colored by chromium. With a Mohs hardness of 9, ruby is one of the most durable precious stones. The GIA highlights their historical significance in Burmese and Indian cultures. This traditional July birthstone symbolizes vitality and leadership. Click here to see our ruby jewellery:
Sapphire (September) All non-red corundum is classified as sapphire. While blue is most iconic, sapphires come in yellow, green, and even pink. The GIA describes sapphire as a symbol of truth and loyalty. It’s the modern and traditional birthstone for September. For our sapphire jewellery collection tap this link:
Spinel (August ) Spinel has long been mistaken for ruby, including the famous “Black Prince’s Ruby” in the British Crown Jewels. As per GIA, spinel is a magnesium aluminum oxide mineral that forms in vivid reds, pinks, and purples. It became an official August birthstone in 2016. For some jewellery with spinel see here:
Tanzanite (December) Tanzanite is a blue-violet variety of zoisite discovered in 1967 near Mount Kilimanjaro. The GIA considers it a “gemstone of the 20th century.” A modern December birthstone, it’s connected to insight, transformation, and individuality.
Topaz (November) A fluorosilicate mineral (Al₂SiO₄(F,OH)₂), topaz comes in golden, pink, and irradiated blue hues. As noted by the GIA, it’s linked with joy and generosity. This traditional November birthstone is also referenced in biblical texts and historical mythologies.
Tourmaline (October) Tourmaline is a complex borosilicate with varying compositions and colors. It can display striking bicolor zones, such as in watermelon tourmaline. The GIA describes it as a gem of creativity and compassion—an apt modern October birthstone. Click here for our tourmaline collection:
Turquoise (December) An opaque copper-aluminum phosphate, turquoise has been treasured for millennia by cultures from Persia to Mesoamerica. The Geological Society explains its importance as both ornament and amulet. As a December birthstone, it symbolizes protection and peace. To see come beautiful turquoise jewellery click here:
Birthstones by Month Summary
I have listed in brackets whether they are modern, traditional or in some cases alternative birthstones. Where not listed they are both the modern and the traditional gem for the month.
January – Garnet
February – Amethyst
March – Aquamarine (Modern), Bloodstone (Traditional)
April – Diamond
May – Emerald
June – Pearl (Traditional), Moonstone (Alternative), Alexandrite (Modern)
July – Ruby
August – Peridot (Modern), Spinel (Modern), Sardonyx (Traditional)
September – Sapphire (Traditional), Lapis Lazuli (Historical)
October – Opal (Traditional), Tourmaline (Modern)
November – Citrine (Modern), Topaz (Traditional)
December – Turquoise (Traditional), Tanzanite (Modern), Lapis Lazuli (Historical)
Further Reading & Source Material
Books:
The Natural History Museum Book of Gemstones: A concise reference guide – Robin Hansen
These guides are meant to be useful resources and we welcome feedback and suggestions, so don’t be shy! We intend to ensure they are iterative and get updated with added information as time goes on.
The History of Gemstones: Origins, Symbolism, and Antique Jewellery
Gemstones are more than just beautiful adornments. Each stone carries a story and a journey through time that adds depth and meaning to the jewellery in which it is set. At Anadej, we believe that understanding the history of gemstones enriches the experience of wearing and collecting antique and vintage jewellery. From the ancient mines of Babylon to the vibrant Art Deco rings of the 1920s, gemstones have captured the imagination for thousands of years.
In this guide, we explore how gemstones were sourced, valued, and incorporated into jewellery across the centuries. Whether you are a seasoned collector or simply curious about the allure of precious stones, the history of gemstones is full of fascinating stories and remarkable craftsmanship.
Origins of Gemstones
The journey of gemstones begins deep within the earth. Rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds have been treasured since antiquity.
Ancient Mines: India was the earliest known source of diamonds and sapphires (GIA), while Egypt provided some of the world’s first emeralds. Sri Lanka was famous for its rubies.
Trade and Travel: Gems moved along trade routes across Asia and Europe, spreading their beauty and cultural significance.
Symbolism: Gemstones often held spiritual or protective qualities. Emeralds symbolised fertility, rubies courage, and sapphires wisdom.
Gemstones as Amulets and Talismans
Jewellery with gemstones was often worn as amulets and talismans, believed to offer protection, promote health, or even attract love. This practice was popular throughout Persia, as well as in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome (British Museum).
Egypt: Amulets often represented animals, deities, symbols, or objects in miniature, frequently accentuated with gemstones such as turquoise, amethyst, lapis lazuli, and chalcedony. These stones were considered symbols of personality and spiritual protection.
Greece: Greek jewellery frequently included references to Gods and Goddesses, and around 100 B.C., introduced cameos and intaglios carved from gemstones and semi-precious stones.
Rome: Romans revered gemstones for their perceived spiritual powers and wore them in rings, pendants, and bracelets to harness these benefits.
King Tutankhamun Scarab Bracelet – Lapis Lazuli – (c) Egypt Museum
More on the spiritual and symbolic significance of individual stones will be uncovered in our A–Z of Gemstones guide, which explores each gem in turn.
Uses of Gemstones in Jewellery
Gemstones have been used in jewellery for a myriad of reasons — primarily status, protection, and commitment.
Status: One of the earliest reasons to wear gemstone jewellery was to demonstrate wealth and social position. In Europe, Sumptuary Laws were enacted in the 13th century to restrict fine jewellery to the upper classes and high-ranking church officials. These laws reflected both the exclusivity of gemstones and the social shifts created by the Crusades, which brought rare gems and luxury goods from distant lands into circulation.
Amulets: As mentioned above, gemstones often carried symbolic or protective power.
Commitment: Gemstones were, and still are, a popular choice for gifts and engagement jewellery, symbolising love, loyalty, and enduring bonds.
Elizabethan Suptuary Laws – Rules for Dressing
Gemstones in Historic Jewellery
Over the centuries, gemstones have influenced jewellery design in remarkable ways. Each era has its own distinctive style, which collectors can explore through our carefully curated shop categories:
Each era tells a story through its gemstones and design — exploring these categories can help you find pieces that resonate with both history and style.
Gemstone Sources Through History
Certain regions became synonymous with gemstone quality (Smithsonian Institution, American Museum of Natural History):
India: Early diamonds and sapphires
Colombia: Emeralds prized by European nobility
Sri Lanka: Rubies and sapphires treasured for centuries
Brazil & Africa: Important sources of diamonds and coloured gemstones in the 19th and 20th centuries
Gemstones in Antique and Vintage Jewellery Today
Knowing a gemstone’s history can enhance your appreciation of antique jewellery. It helps you understand period-specific cuts and settings, the symbolic meanings of colours, and why certain stones were favoured in particular eras. A garnet might symbolise friendship, a sapphire loyalty, and a ruby passion.
Discover how these stones were used across different eras in our A–Z of Gemstones guide, which helps you identify, care for, and appreciate each gem.
Caring for Historical Gemstones
Antique and vintage gemstones require careful attention to preserve their beauty and value:
Clean carefully: Hard gemstones like diamonds, sapphires, and rubies can be gently cleaned with mild soap and water. Softer or porous stones such as turquoise, opal, coral, and pearls should avoid prolonged exposure to water or harsh chemicals. Instead, wipe them gently with a soft, dry cloth.
Check settings regularly: Have delicate or intricate pieces inspected by a jeweller to ensure stones are secure.
Store properly: Keep pieces individually in soft pouches or lined boxes to prevent scratches and tangling.
Avoid extreme conditions: Protect gemstones from high heat, direct sunlight, and chemicals that could alter colour or structure.
Consider insurance: Cover rare or valuable pieces for peace of mind.
FAQ: History of Gemstones
What is the oldest gemstone used in jewellery?
Diamonds and sapphires have been used for more than 3,000 years, with early sources in India.
Why were certain gemstones popular in specific eras?
Trends often reflected availability, fashion, and symbolism. Edwardian jewellery favoured platinum and diamonds, while Art Deco designers loved bold contrasts of sapphires and rubies.
How do I identify gemstones in antique jewellery?
Look for era-specific cuts, hallmarks, and craftsmanship. Our A–Z of Gemstones is a useful resource for identification.
Discover Our Gemstone Jewellery Collection
At Anadej, every gemstone tells a story. Browse our carefully curated antique and vintage jewellery collection to find rings, necklaces, brooches, and charms that combine history, beauty, and individuality. Each piece carries the legacy of its era into the present day. Browse our collection here:
Resources for the history of gemstones and their uses
Books:
Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present – Clare Phillips
Jewels & Jewellery – Clare Phillips
A History of Jewellery, 110-1870 – Joan Evans
The History of Jewelry: Joseph Saidian & Sons – Caroline Childers
Although short in time, the Art Nouveau period was significant in jewellery design and other decorative arts. Art Nouveau jewellery originated in France, Belgium and other parts of Europe, with influences from Japonisme and was created by a small group of Avant Gard artists. It marked the transformation from the Victorian period in to the modern. In the UK specifically, it was born out of the Arts and Crafts period (1860s-80s) and crossed over the late Victorian aesthetic period and Edwardian era.
In this period jewellers really considered themselves artists and you can see why with the incredibly detailed and flowing style of the jewellery available at this time. You can absolutely see the craftsmanship that has gone into each and every piece. There was a rejection of the mass produced jewellery and a move back to hand crafted pieces with fluid, free-flowing design inspired by the natural world.
It is one of our absolute favourite periods here at Anadej in terms of the jewellery, artwork, architectural design, and homewares that were available at the time. Indeed, our owner has family connections with Art Nouveau Jewellery specifically, as a great, great niece to Ella Naper. Ella Naper (nee Champion) was a celebrated artist, potter, designer, and jewellery maker. She was an active member of the Newlyn School, along with her husband Charles Naper and friends Laura Knight and Harold Knight who she collaborated with often. Ella exhibited at the Arts and Crafts Exhibition, Woman’s Art Exhibition and also sold pieces through Liberty’s of London. Her pieces are very well regarded and are popular collectors’ items to this day.
Silver and Enamel Necklace by Ella Naper – On display at Penlee House.
Motifs and Symbolism in Art Nouveau Jewellery
Art Nouveau jewellery was soft, romantic, and often mystical. Pieces would often include depictions of the natural world, with a focus on the language of flowers. The female form was celebrated too, often blending with elements from insects, like the butterfly or dragonfly, floral motifs, and sometimes other winged creatures like bats!
Fluid lines and a sense of the piece as a whole, rather than disparate elements making up a design, was a key feature in this period. Enamelling gained popularity during this period and plique-a-jour was a popular technique. Plique-à-jour is backless enamel and allows light to come through to give a three-dimensional quality, creating an effect of translucence.
In the Art Nouveau period colours used were more muted and pastel, adding to the dreaminess of the piece.
Charles Boutet de Monvel Art Nouveau Opal Diamond Ring – Tadema Gallery – Available via 1st DibsArt Nouveau Butterfly Necklace – Art Nouveau Club
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Art Nouveau Jewellery
The settings and styles in Art Nouveau jewellery were often incredibly unique and individual to the piece being created and the gems being used. For diamonds, the cut was usually either the old mine or old European cuts (a forerunner to the modern brilliant cut).
Popular Gemstones in Art Nouveau Jewellery
There wasn’t such a focus on the gem value during the Art Nouveau period, indeed, gems were often used more as an accent to the metal work/settings rather than as the central focus. The value in the piece came from the work and artistry involved. Gems used included; small diamonds, opals, pearls, tourmaline, emeralds, lapis lazuli, moonstone, carnelian, amber and synthetic gems.
We obviously can’t do an article about Art Nouveau Jewellery without mentioning Rene Lalique who was really the founding father in experimental jewellery craftsmanship, leading the way with new enamelling techniques, putting the artwork above all else.
Rene Lalique Necklace – Musee Lalique (c)
Metals Used in Art Nouveau Jewellery
Precious white metal e.g., platinum, white gold, palladium, and silver was used more commonly than yellow or rose gold, however, 14ct and 18ct gold was used during this period.
Our range of Art Nouveau Jewellery
Our range of Art Nouveau jewellery is ever evolving as we find more pieces to bring you joy, our current range can be found here.
Further resources:
Ella and Charles Naper and the Lamorna Artists – John Branfield
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Elizabethan Suptuary Laws – Rules for Dressing
