Description
Wonderful early 20th Century garnet topped doublet and diamond boat ring with lovely detailing.
You may have thought by the looks of this ring that the gems used were sapphires and diamonds, but this is an example practice used in the mid to late 19th century and early 20th century of using doublets instead. Often at these times the buyer would not know, however I believe in full transparency and also believe that these doublets have their place in history and are interesting. I’ve put some further information below, for those of you who are interested in some of the more unscrupulous or shall we say creative practices of early antique jewellery makers!
Hallmarked 9ct gold, assayed in Chester, 1910.
Size:
UK P US 7.5
History of garnet topped doublets:
Garnet topped doublets were first written about in a book published in 1869. It is thought that the process was invented by a lapidary in 1845 in Paris. Garnet was often used as it fused easily to glass, more so than other gems. Another doublet is the Soude emerald which comprise two pieces of rock crystal cemented together with green dyed gelatine. These were common in the late 19th century. The commercial production of synthetic gems means that the rock crystal or glass has now been replaced by synthetic gems.
This text has been taken from navettejewellery.org, full article with further information on fakes and substitutes used in jewellery can be found here:
Further information about the Chester Assay Office:
Antique jewellery hailing from Chester is relatively rare. Chester was granted an official Assay Office in 1700 which ran until 1962. In it’s time the Chester office did a lot of assaying for other regions, including the jewellery hub of Birmingham.
Further help:
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