The Art Nouveau Period (1890-1915)
Although short in time, the Art Nouveau period was significant in jewellery design and other decorative arts. Art Nouveau jewellery originated in France, Belgium and other parts of Europe, with influences from Japonisme and was created by a small group of Avant Gard artists. It marked the transformation from the Victorian period in to the modern. In the UK specifically, it was born out of the Arts and Crafts period (1860s-80s) and crossed over the late Victorian aesthetic period and Edwardian era.
In this period jewellers really considered themselves artists and you can see why with the incredibly detailed and flowing style of the jewellery available at this time. You can absolutely see the craftsmanship that has gone into each and every piece. There was a rejection of the mass produced jewellery and a move back to hand crafted pieces with fluid, free-flowing design inspired by the natural world.
It is one of our absolute favourite periods here at Anadej in terms of the jewellery, artwork, architectural design, and homewares that were available at the time. Indeed, our owner has family connections with Art Nouveau Jewellery specifically, as a great, great niece to Ella Naper. Ella Naper (nee Champion) was a celebrated artist, potter, designer, and jewellery maker. She was an active member of the Newlyn School, along with her husband Charles Naper and friends Laura Knight and Harold Knight who she collaborated with often. Ella exhibited at the Arts and Crafts Exhibition, Woman’s Art Exhibition and also sold pieces through Liberty’s of London. Her pieces are very well regarded and are popular collectors’ items to this day.
Motifs and Symbolism in Art Nouveau Jewellery
Art Nouveau jewellery was soft, romantic, and often mystical. Pieces would often include depictions of the natural world, with a focus on the language of flowers. The female form was celebrated too, often blending with elements from insects, like the butterfly or dragonfly, floral motifs, and sometimes other winged creatures like bats!
Fluid lines and a sense of the piece as a whole, rather than disparate elements making up a design, was a key feature in this period. Enamelling gained popularity during this period and plique-a-jour was a popular technique. Plique-à-jour is backless enamel and allows light to come through to give a three-dimensional quality, creating an effect of translucence.
In the Art Nouveau period colours used were more muted and pastel, adding to the dreaminess of the piece.
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Art Nouveau Jewellery
The settings and styles in Art Nouveau jewellery were often incredibly unique and individual to the piece being created and the gems being used. For diamonds, the cut was usually either the old mine or old European cuts (a forerunner to the modern brilliant cut).
Popular Gemstones in Art Nouveau Jewellery
There wasn’t such a focus on the gem value during the Art Nouveau period, indeed, gems were often used more as an accent to the metal work/settings rather than as the central focus. The value in the piece came from the work and artistry involved. Gems used included; small diamonds, opals, pearls, tourmaline, emeralds, lapis lazuli, moonstone, carnelian, amber and synthetic gems.
We obviously can’t do an article about Art Nouveau Jewellery without mentioning Rene Lalique who was really the founding father in experimental jewellery craftsmanship, leading the way with new enamelling techniques, putting the artwork above all else.
Metals Used in Art Nouveau Jewellery
Precious white metal e.g., platinum, white gold, palladium, and silver was used more commonly than yellow or rose gold, however, 14ct and 18ct gold was used during this period.
Our range of Art Nouveau Jewellery
Our range of Art Nouveau jewellery is ever evolving as we find more pieces to bring you joy, our current range can be found here.
Further resources:
- Ella and Charles Naper and the Lamorna Artists – John Branfield
- Art Nouveau Jewelry – Vivienne Becker
- Art Nouveau Club – link