An overview of gemstones, history, discovery, uses and beliefs
Where would jewellery be without the precious and semi-precious gems used to give a focal point or accentuate it? I mean they are literally the jewel in jewellery! Using gems in jewellery is not a recent idea, in fact as more and more ancient finds are discovered, we see what an incredibly old artform it really is. In this guide we will look at the history of gems, discovery, uses, beliefs at the time.
History of Jewellery
Recently it has been discovered that the Neanderthals made primitive jewellery; the earliest finding being a necklace made from eagle’s claws. Beads, made from bone, teeth and sea shells have also been found relatively recently, a pre-cursor to using gems, including pearls, as beads. In Israel, a beaded necklace was found, dating to nearly 100,000 years ago. This amazing discovery indicates there was trading at this time as these beads, made from sea snails, were over 200km away from the sea.
In terms of jewellery made from or with gemstones, the earliest recorded discovery (currently!) is a bracelet made from chlorite, found in a cave in Siberia in 2008, which is believed to be 40,000 years old – more details found on this link.
Of course, one of the largest deposits of jewellery found from ancient times is from the discovery of King Tutankhamun. His grave had not been raided, unlike the vast majority of his predecessors. Here a large proportion of the jewellery found was adorned with gemstones, especially lapis lazuli, carnelian and turquoise. More information on Ancient Egyptian jewellery can be found in this article.
Gems were and are used in jewellery for a myriad of different reasons. Here we take a look at some of the main reasons; status, amulets and commitment.
One of the common early reasons to wear jewellery – especially jewellery with gemstones – was to show status. Indeed, in Europe, laws were passed (Sumptuary Laws 13th Century ) to limit the wearing of fine jewellery to the upper classes and high ranking church officials. This was due to the fact that the Crusades happening at the time had enabled more common folk to get their hands on goods coming from far flung paces, including precious gemstones.
Elizabethan Suptuary Laws – Rules for Dressing
Jewellery with gemstones were often used to act as amulets and talismans, largely with the thought to offer the wearer protection, health and in some cases to attract love. This practice was incredibly popular throughout Persia, to the Egyptians, Romans and Greeks.
In Egypt amulets often represented animals, deities, symbols, or objects in miniature and accentuated with gemstones, for example: turquoise, amethyst, lapis lazuli, and chalcedony, which were used as symbols of the personality.
For the Greeks, they often included references and symbols important to their Gods and Goddesses and introduced cameos and intaglios in about 100 B.C.
Gemstones were revered by the Romans for their gem-specific spiritual powers, more of this will be uncovered in our next gemstone guide looking at each gem in turn.
King Tutankhamun Scarab Bracelet – Lapis Lazuli – (c) Egypt MuseumMarlborough Antinous – A Roman Black Chalcedony Intaglio Portrait of Antinous, circa 130-138 A.D. (c) J.Paul Getty Museum
They then moved in to being more a symbol of commitment, love, courtship, and also simply for fashion. Certain gems, especially red or pink coloured gems are thought to be connected to the heart and denote love; like rubies, pink sapphires, rose quartz, amethyst and pink tourmaline. We must not forget the diamond here too as it has long been a symbol of eternal love. As it is the hardest gem in existence, it is able to withstand a lot, whilst still remaining beautiful.
Further Gemstone Articles
In the articles that follow we will provide more information on both precious and semi-precious gems, highlighting their properties, noteworthy aspects and history in alphabetised order.
We will then look at gem cuts, and how these have developed over time, linking useful resources so that you can quickly and easily identify the cut and also the estimated carat weight of your gem.
Resources for the history of gemstones and their uses
Books
Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present – Clare Phillips
Jewels & Jewellery – Clare Phillips
A History of Jewellery, 110-1870 – Joan Evans
The History of Jewelry: Joseph Saidian & Sons – Caroline Childers
These guides are meant to be useful resources and we welcome feedback and suggestions, so don’t be shy! We intend to ensure they are iterative and get updated with added information as time goes on.
Another absolute favourite for us here at Anadej and clearly it is a favourite for many!
The Art Deco period came in to being just post the First World War, which saw mass destruction to European cultural centres. There was also a necessary shift to the workforce, with women taking up industrial roles left behind by men called to the front line. The wealth of the nobility and upper classes had been severely dented. This meant there was a revolt against the excesses seen in the Edwardian, Art Nouveau/Belle Epoque eras. Against this background the Art Deco period flourished, with clean, sleek, bold and experimental jewellery all the rage.
People were also after more fun and with the changing fashions (think sleeker, shorter, simpler and no frills or corsets weighing you down), the jewellery also changed. The Art Deco period straddles both the antique and vintage jewellery categories. It is in sharp contrast to the flowing lines and natural symbols of the forerunner, Art Nouveau. During the Art deco period the shapes and styles are typically very angular.
In Art Deco jewellery we find that pieces often feature bold geometric patterns and colours. Sometimes synthetic gems and even plastic took the place of fine gems. We also see more millgrain and filigree, and of course lots of resplendent diamonds! Nothing exemplified this era of wild abandon, and faith in progress more than sprays of diamonds and we are all for it!
Art Deco Red Spinel Necklace – Anadej @anadej.jewelleryArt Deco Diamond and Platinum Watch Head – Anadej @anadej.jewellery
Motifs and symbolism in the Art Deco Period
Popular motifs included geometric patterns as previously mentioned, but jewellers also took inspiration from the wider world or art and culture. The Art Deco era was influenced by styles from around the world and introduced new jewellery trends from Far East Asian motifs and Indian gemstone-carving, to exotic new colourful materials such as lapis lazuli, turquoise, agate and bakelite. The Egyptian revival especially took hold.
Art Deco Bakelite Brooch – George and Piglet @georgeandpiglet
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in the Art Deco Period
Old mine, old European, and step cuts, as well as new styles of shield shapes and calibre cuts.
Jewellery powerhouse, Van Cleef & Arpels, developed the ‘mystery setting’ or serti invisible this allowed gems to be mounted in such a way that no metal was visible.
Gem cutters developed ways to cut and shape gems in new and exciting ways which meant that wonderful shapes, almost like mosaics could be formed by positioning the different shapes together.
Notable Features of Art Deco Jewellery
Rings
Art Deco rings were bold and undeniably beautiful and are still much admired and copied today. Often you would see a large coloured precious gem surrounded by tightly packed baguette or calibre cut diamonds.
Cabochon gemstones were still popular for rings as was filigree work, made popular in the late Edwardian era.
Earrings
As hair styles shortened in the early Art Deco period the earrings were long and dangly, though mid to late on in the era they were back up to the earlobe and they were often clip earrings. There was a big preference for multi-tasking jewellery, and earrings could often double up as brooches.
Necklaces
Sautoirs were the necklace style of the era; very long and tied wildly at the front or back and often with a long tassel. Pearl necklaces worn during the day and into the evening were very popular. Pearls were now often cultured or cultivated and therefore more accessible. Indeed, multi-strand pearl or gem bead necklaces with diamond or gem plaques on either side created a festoon effect. The simple diamond riviere was replaced by magnificent bib necklaces adorned with colourful large gems.
Brooches
Brooches were incredibly popular in the Art Deco era, indeed, you could not have just one brooch and, as with earrings, brooches were often made for multiple-use; as earrings, as dress clips and as a brooch! They were worn on every garment and everywhere.
Hair Ornaments
The tiara was still a mandatory piece of jewellery for state events, but otherwise the more relaxed and lower slung bandeau was worn. These could also be multiple-use jewellery as often they could also be used as bracelets or necklaces.
Art Deco Diamond Dress Clips – Bonne Bijouterie @thebonnebijouterieArt Deco Diamond and Onyx Stick Pin – Bonne Bijouterie @thebonnebijouterie
Popular Gemstones in the Art Deco Period
Diamond, emerald, sapphire, ruby, black onyx, crystal (quartz) ivory, jade, mother of pearl, cultured pearls and a plethora of synthetic gems (often made with bakelite).
Metals Used in the Art Deco Period
Platinum, silver, white gold, chrome, and marcasite.
Art Deco Illusion Set Diamond Ring – Anadej @anadej.jewellery
Art Deco Diamond Flower Ring – French – Anadej @anadej.jewellery
Fun fact alert! The Edwardian Era is the last to be named after the ruling British monarch of the time. Although the Edwardian Period overlaps Art Nouveau, each gets treated as its own design period due to their distinctive styles. The Edwardian era, headed by the luxury-loving playboy King Edward V11, was a time of frivolity and wealth. This is especially true for the upper classes, who were often attending balls, dinners and galas. Absolutely a perfect time for showing off beautiful jewels! It was a time when society was at the height of elegance and the jewellery really exemplified this.
Edwardian rings used open wire designs and filigree work was prevalent and fine milgrain settings became popular too. Platinum usage surged due to the metal’s unparalleled strength, enabling jewellers to create delicate and lacy mountings, the finer and more intricate the better. Whilst machine made jewellery was still prevalent for the lower and middle classes, the upper echelons and their jewellers moved back to hand-crafted. Enamelling became immensely popular.
Hand-crafted, well-made individual, rather than mass produced jewellery was back in fashion in the Edwardian era and the style became ethereal and detailed, drawing inspiration from the 18th century. Traditional motifs such as bows, garlands, ribbons and lace and feathers were extremely popular. Edwardian fashionistas particularly loved the intricate style of these delicate-looking pieces.
Edwardian Diamond Filigree Engagement Ring – PinterestWilliam Pick – Necklace in Case – 1913 – at V&A
Motifs and symbolism in Edwardian Jewellery
Bows, ribbons, garlands, lace, feathers, and anything fine and fancy was the order of the day!
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Edwardian Jewellery
Rose, old mine, and old European cuts were the prevalent cuts of the day, but the baguette cut also gained popularity in this era too.
Rings, as mentioned, were detailed, often with a large smattering of diamonds, typically set in platinum with milgrain and filigree settings. Diamond engagement rings really gained popularity in the Edwardian era. Often with a large diamond in the centre, surrounded by a halo of smaller milgrain set diamonds, alternatively delicate filigree diamond rings, with good finger coverage stretching down the finger.
Necklines were changing, becoming more revealing and lower and therefore draping necklaces were becoming fashionable. Sautoirs, lavaliers and interestingly at the other end of the spectrum, chokers were also popular in this period.
Bracelets were often light with flowery designs and were usually worn alone rather than in a stack.
To complement the lower necklines dangly earrings gained popularity in Edwardian times.
Edwardian White Enamel Gate Link Bracelet – AnadejEdwardian Aquamarine and Pearl Lavalier – Anadej
Popular Gemstones in Edwardian Jewellery
Diamonds were used extensively, however interestingly during the Edwardian period, pearls were the more highly prized and indeed expensive gem. A big focus was on white/clear jewellery such as the aforementioned and also moonstone, opals, mother of pearl. That’s not to say that other gemstones weren’t used, but they were often only used as accents. For example, peridot, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, especially Burma rubies were in fashion too.
Edwardian Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring – AnadejFrench Belle Epoque Edwardian Diamond Ring 18ct – AnadejEdwardian Charms in Mother of Peal and Jade – Anadej
Metals Used in Edwardian Jewellery
White metals were incredibly popular during the Edwardian era, especially platinum as it is so hard and offered great flexibility for detailed work. White gold and silver was also used as well as rolled gold, and high carat gold (especially 18ct) in all colours.
Other Things of Note for Edwardian Jewellery
Jewellery from the Edwardian Period should have a hallmark as this practice of marking jewellery for metal purity, makers marks, region (assay office) was becoming industry standard at the time (though it must be said that some pieces still don’t have the full spectrum of hallmarks). For UK jewellery the hallmarks are usually placed on the inside of the ring. In other countries the marks may be present on the outside, e.g., French hallmarks are often found outside on the band.
Further Resources for Edwardian Jewellery
Starting to Collect Antique Jewellery – John Benjamin
Although short in time, the Art Nouveau period was significant in jewellery design and other decorative arts. Art Nouveau jewellery originated in France, Belgium and other parts of Europe, with influences from Japonisme and was created by a small group of Avant Gard artists. It marked the transformation from the Victorian period in to the modern. In the UK specifically, it was born out of the Arts and Crafts period (1860s-80s) and crossed over the late Victorian aesthetic period and Edwardian era.
In this period jewellers really considered themselves artists and you can see why with the incredibly detailed and flowing style of the jewellery available at this time. You can absolutely see the craftsmanship that has gone into each and every piece. There was a rejection of the mass produced jewellery and a move back to hand crafted pieces with fluid, free-flowing design inspired by the natural world.
It is one of our absolute favourite periods here at Anadej in terms of the jewellery, artwork, architectural design, and homewares that were available at the time. Indeed, our owner has family connections with Art Nouveau Jewellery specifically, as a great, great niece to Ella Naper. Ella Naper (nee Champion) was a celebrated artist, potter, designer, and jewellery maker. She was an active member of the Newlyn School, along with her husband Charles Naper and friends Laura Knight and Harold Knight who she collaborated with often. Ella exhibited at the Arts and Crafts Exhibition, Woman’s Art Exhibition and also sold pieces through Liberty’s of London. Her pieces are very well regarded and are popular collectors’ items to this day.
Silver and Enamel Necklace by Ella Naper – On display at Penlee House.
Motifs and Symbolism in Art Nouveau Jewellery
Art Nouveau jewellery was soft, romantic, and often mystical. Pieces would often include depictions of the natural world, with a focus on the language of flowers. The female form was celebrated too, often blending with elements from insects, like the butterfly or dragonfly, floral motifs, and sometimes other winged creatures like bats!
Fluid lines and a sense of the piece as a whole, rather than disparate elements making up a design, was a key feature in this period. Enamelling gained popularity during this period and plique-a-jour was a popular technique. Plique-à-jour is backless enamel and allows light to come through to give a three-dimensional quality, creating an effect of translucence.
In the Art Nouveau period colours used were more muted and pastel, adding to the dreaminess of the piece.
Charles Boutet de Monvel Art Nouveau Opal Diamond Ring – Tadema Gallery – Available via 1st DibsArt Nouveau Butterfly Necklace – Art Nouveau Club
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Art Nouveau Jewellery
The settings and styles in Art Nouveau jewellery were often incredibly unique and individual to the piece being created and the gems being used. For diamonds, the cut was usually either the old mine or old European cuts (a forerunner to the modern brilliant cut).
Popular Gemstones in Art Nouveau Jewellery
There wasn’t such a focus on the gem value during the Art Nouveau period, indeed, gems were often used more as an accent to the metal work/settings rather than as the central focus. The value in the piece came from the work and artistry involved. Gems used included; small diamonds, opals, pearls, tourmaline, emeralds, lapis lazuli, moonstone, carnelian, amber and synthetic gems.
We obviously can’t do an article about Art Nouveau Jewellery without mentioning Rene Lalique who was really the founding father in experimental jewellery craftsmanship, leading the way with new enamelling techniques, putting the artwork above all else.
Rene Lalique Necklace – Musee Lalique (c)
Metals Used in Art Nouveau Jewellery
Precious white metal e.g., platinum, white gold, palladium, and silver was used more commonly than yellow or rose gold, however, 14ct and 18ct gold was used during this period.
Our range of Art Nouveau Jewellery
Our range of Art Nouveau jewellery is ever evolving as we find more pieces to bring you joy, our current range can be found here.
Further resources:
Ella and Charles Naper and the Lamorna Artists – John Branfield
Queen Victoria reigned for a long time as you can see from the dates above! In fact, during her reign there were nine, yes nine Prime Ministers!
It was an era very much based on class with clear divisions in wealth distribution between the classes. During this time, a growing number of people were able to vote, which built individuals’ confidence. There was also a growing economy and Britain was the most powerful Empire in the world, until the end of the period.
There were huge advancements in technology with the Industrial Revolution. Therefore the ability to produce jewellery at a larger scale and for a greater proportion of the population was made possible.
Jewellery historians usually break this era down into three periods: Early (or Romantic), Mid (or Grand), and Late Victorian (or Aesthetic). As such, we’ve organised the information in this article to correspond to those periods. You will see that each have individual styles due to shifting moods, technological advancements and discoveries.
Early or Romantic Victorian Jewellery (1837-1860)
The jewellery of the Early Victorian Era reflected the love and hope the young queen had for her husband, Albert (they married in 1840). This era was often characterised by a ‘return to nature’ and alongside the Bible nearly all households had a book for deciphering the language of flowers. It is said that Queen Victoria fuelled a nationwide and potentially even worldwide love affair with jewellery and its symbolism. Her love of diamonds and turquoise, to name just a couple of her favourite gems, really accelerated their popularity.
The 1840s saw the start of large-scale jewellery manufacturing. However, jewellers were still making many pieces by hand and these pieces are especially sought after in today’s market.
Motifs and symbolism in Early or Romantic Victorian Jewellery
Popular ring motifs included snakes as symbols of eternal love. Prior to their marriage Albert gave Victoria a snake ring with an emerald embedded into it as a symbol of their love. Other fashionable motifs at the time included: angels, love knots, hearts, crosses, clovers and of course flowers. In addition, designs with Greek, Roman or with Celtic influence were popular, as Prince Albert bought Queen Victoria Balmoral Castle in 1852, having leased it in 1848.
Queen Victoria’s Engagement ring from Prince Albert: credit – thehistorypress.co.ukGorgeous Victorian Turquoise Panel Brooch, mounted on 18ct gold, with c clasp fitting. From Anadej.
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Early or Romantic Victorian Jewellery
Gems were largely cut as either:
rose cut – round shape with a faceted domed top and flat bottom
old mine cuts – a forerunner to the old European cut and therefore modern brilliant cut
cabochons – smooth domed top flat bottom
step cuts – usually for coloured stones forming a series of straight facets that decrease in length as they recede from the girdle and so give the appearance of steps
Collet settings as seen in Georgian jewellery continued during this time, but now with open backs, and claw like prong settings were also used.
Brooches were now commonly secured using the simple ‘C’ clasp, where the pins extended past the body of the brooch (can be seen in image above, back view available on product page).
Popular Gemstones in Early or Romantic Victorian Jewellery
Diamonds, turquoise, pink and gold topaz, coral, ruby and amethyst were all popular gems at the time. Notably people’s birth stones were often included in their engagement ring, leading on from Victoria’s emerald snake ring.
Metals Used in Early or Romantic Victorian Jewellery
A variety of metals were used in Early Romantic Victorian Jewellery, 22ct and more commonly 18ct was popular. However, it should be noted that before the Gold Rush of 1848-55, lower carat golds, gold plating, rolled gold and even gold imitation pinchbeck was used. White gold was not seen during the Early Victorian era, but silver and iron were used.
Mid-Victorian or Grand Period Victorian Jewellery (1860-1885)
The Mid-Victorian era was particularly tumultuous. For Queen Victoria it was an incredibly sad period with her beloved husband Albert passing away at the end of 1861. In America the Civil war was raging. The whimsical and romantic period was swept away and, in its place, came the Grand period. Victoria led the charge on mourning jewellery as dark and heavy rings became very fashionable in reflecting a state of mourning.
On a more positive note, a big discovery of diamonds in South Africa led to many jewellers now having access to them and so they were used frequently and there was also the benefit of the incandescent light bulb coming through from 1879, which put diamonds in a whole new and wonderful light, literally!
Motifs and Symbolism in Mid-Victorian or Grand Period Victorian Jewellery
With so much exploration at this time and the discoveries of ancient tombs, Etruscan and Egyptian motifs abounded. Acorns, bees, birds, flowers, geometric patterns, stars and crescent moons were popular symbols during this time.
Victorian Etruscan Revival Brooch. From Anadej
Victorian Flower and Crescent Moon Brooch. From Anadej.
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Mid-Victorian or Grand Period Victorian Jewellery
Gems were largely cut as above in Early Victorian era, with following addition.
cabochons, notably, in the Mid-Victorian or Grand Period, semi-precious gem cabochons, would often house a precious gem at the top. Usually a diamond or pearl (with a setting running all the way through).
Jewellery was often quite heavy and opulent during this time as the industry was booming due to gold and gemstone discoveries. What we now know as the star-set or gypsy-set rings were now popular, along with pave settings.
A lever catch was added to the ‘C’ settings in brooches to make them more secure as brooches became all the more popular.
Another notable trend was hairwork; which whilst had been used previously had gained popularity and greater level of technique during the Mid-Victorian era.
Victorian Enamel and Pearl Mourning Ring, Victorian Mourning Ring – from AnadejVictorian Garnet and Rose Cut Diamond Ring (c) Lang Antiques
Popular Gemstones in Mid-Victorian or Grand Period Victorian Jewellery
Garnet, diamond, emerald, black onyx, jet, black glass, opals and pearls were popular during this period and cabochon cuts were de rigeur. Tortoiseshell and micro-mosaic elements in jewellery also became fashionable.
Metals Used in Mid-Victorian or Grand Period Victorian Jewellery
Silver, steel, and 9ct, 10ct, and 15ct gold was used extensively. Rose-coloured gold in all carats became incredibly popular too.
Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1885-1901)
This period saw a slight relaxation in mourning for Queen Victoria (and its fair to say the population at large was rather tired of the dark mood!). With that, rings and other jewellery items became increasingly delicate and light compared to the heavy Mid-Victorian pieces. It is in this period where we had art for art’s sake, with little placed on the significance, just the beauty of the piece was important. The discovery of opals in Australia at Lightning Ridge in the late 1890s catapulted this beautiful gem into prominence and it was often used in late Victorian jewellery and we at Anadej are delighted about this!
Motifs and symbolism in Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period Jewellery
Crescents and other celestial symbols were increasingly popular during this period, as were horseshoes, oak leaves, and trefoils. Double hearts with crowns or knots and bows and ribbons were popular.
Victorian Crescent Moon Brooch with Inscription 15ct Gold. From AnadejVictorian Turquoise and Rose Cut Diamond Ring. From Anadej
Gem Cutting Styles and Settings in Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period Jewellery
Gems were largely cut as above in Early and mid Victorian eras, with following addition.
old European cut – like the old mine cut, but rounder and with a smaller culet.
Women’s jewellery became much smaller and lighter during this period to fit in with their busier lifestyles, as women were increasingly at work and fighting for the right to vote.
Tiffany and Co made the solitaire ring popular during this time and the navette or marquise-shaped rings gained popularity too. Bracelets were often stacked and were usually thick and thin bangles stacking together for a wonderful clink! Necklaces took on a fringed/draped appearance, but earrings were usually studs, with the exception of dangles for evenings later in the period.
Another notable trend was for Mizpah jewellery, especially rings. Mizpah is from Hebrew and means ‘Watchtower’, but is commonly interpreted as ‘May God watch over you’.
The Art Nouveau period was gaining ground in France, with incredible designers like Lalique on the rise, more on this will be discussed in our next article on Art Nouveau Jewellery.
Popular Gemstones in Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period Jewellery
Moonstones, opals, amethyst, aquamarine, peridot, emerald, sapphires, rubies and chrysoberyl were commonly featured during this time.
Metals Used in Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period Jewellery
Silver, gold of all carats, rolled gold and now platinum was popular.
Further resources for Victorian Jewellery can be found here:
Sentimental Jewellery – Antique Jewels of Love and Sorrow, Ann Louise Luthi
Victorian Jewelry: Unexplored Treasures, Ginny Redington Dawes and Corinne Davidov
We hope you have enjoyed this article! We have a lovely range of Victorian jewellery with pieces from each of the eras noted and more are added on a regular basis as we find pieces we love and hope you will too. Please click here for our Victorian Rings, here for Victorian brooches or more widely Victorian Jewellery here.
The Georgian period was so named after the four King Georges who ruled in succession throughout this period. It was a prosperous and revolutionary time, particularly in politics, art and architecture, with many technological advancements happening at this time. There were huge developments in science and of course exploration. There was also a changing role for women in society. This all provided a great backdrop for developments in jewellery of the time.
It wasn’t just in Britain, where things were developing at pace and with politics running wild. For example, in America, George Washington was President, and it was a period marked by a Revolution. In France, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were at the helm during the French Revolution and Napoleon. In Russia, Catherine the Great reigned.
For Georgian jewellery history, the period spanned from 1714 to 1830 and encompassed the reign of George I, George II, George III and George IV.
During the Georgian period, intricate metal work depicting natural themes came into fashion. This is called repoussé (an example of a repoussé bracelet is shown below). In addition, the use of faceted gemstones became all the rage.
Motifs and Symbolism in Georgian Jewellery
Flowers, butterflies, ribbons, and scrolls were popular motifs in Georgian jewellery. Sentimental jewellery like the ‘lover’s eye’ and also mourning jewellery was popular at this time. One of our favourites, acrostic jewellery (taking the first letter from popular gemstones to make a word, like regard, love, dearest) was also popular.
Gem Cutting Styles in Georgian Jewellery
Table cuts, rose cuts, and old mine cuts were the cuts of the day. Table cuts are not often seen on the market and have both a flat top and bottom and are either square or rectangular. Rose cuts have a flat bottom with a domed faceted top (fairly large facets, not always even). Old mine cuts are the most similar to today’s brilliant cut.
Beautiful example of a Georgian Rose Cut Diamond Ring from Lang AntiquesGeorgian Table-Cut Garnet Bracelet in Repousse style, with floral design to back. From Anadej
Popular Gemstones and Settings in Georgian Jewellery
The most popular ring stone in Georgian jewellery was the diamond, which was used almost exclusively up until 1750. Diamonds and white paste were more usually set in silver, or silver over 18ct or higher gold.
Garnets, emeralds, topaz and amber were also used. Georgian jewellery was mainly hand crafted and gems were often set in closed settings with foil backing for enhancement. The crimped collet setting as seen in the picture of the rose cut cluster ring from Lang Antiques was very popular at the time. Open settings had not become common during this period.
Paste (different types of cut glass, often coloured) was extremely popular in the 18th Century, as was enamel work.
Metals Used in Georgian Jewellery
Silver over 18 carat gold was often used to highlight colourless gems, e.g. diamonds and clear paste. High carat gold was the order of the day especially 18 carat or 22 carat yellow gold. Instead of lower carat golds, pinchbeck (83% copper and 17% zinc) was used to give the appearance of gold.
Jewellery was often not hallmarked in the Georgian period as it was not a legal requirement to do so.
Beautiful example of a Georgian pinchbeck locket bracelet with a water colour of a gentleman inside. Available at Antique Animal Jewelry.Georgian Mourning Ring for Josiah Wedgewood. Available to view at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum
Rarity and Resources for Georgian Jewellery
Rings from the Georgian Period are now exceedingly rare and there are many forgeries on the market, so special attention must be paid to the style and quality of the ring.
We don’t carry many Georgian pieces at Anadej; however, we would be delighted to help you search if you were after a special piece or suggest other antique jewellery specialists.
We can recommend Antique Animal Jewelry as they are Georgian Jewellery experts and carry a significant and incredible collection and have fascinating blogs on the subject.
A wonderful book full of fantastic information on Georgian Jewellery is: Georgian Jewellery: 1714-1830 by Ginny Redington and Olivia Collings.
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